Southend-on-Sea: A Long Walk Into the Water

It begins with a choice: walk or ride. At the base of Southend Pier, the world’s longest pleasure pier, a small train waits to trundle visitors 1.33 miles across the Thames Estuary. I am tempted, but there is something irresistible about stepping it out on foot. A mile and a third of timber and iron, stretching so far into the water it feels like the horizon itself — how could you not walk?

The boards beneath my shoes creak and chatter. Gulls wheel overhead, the air salted and sharp. Midway along, I glance down at my phone’s GPS: a blue dot hovering comically in the middle of the sea. Behind me, the town is already shrinking, a blur of amusement rides, chip shops, and neon lights. Ahead, the pier head gleams at the horizon.

This is Southend-on-Sea, a town whose identity has always been bound up with this unlikely strip of wood and steel. “The Pier is Southend, Southend is the Pier,” wrote poet John Betjeman, and it remains true. Built for Victorian holidaymakers escaping London, scarred by fire and war, and repeatedly restored, Southend Pier is not just a landmark — it is the heartbeat of this Essex town.

The Pier: History, Architecture, and Legacy

Southend Pier was conceived in the early 1820s, taking decades to fully open in 1889, and notably became the country’s first pier railway. Its iron and timber structure has withstood both the harshest storms and wartime requisition; during the Second World War, it was renamed HMS Leigh by the Royal Navy, a nod to the nearby marine estate. Fires, most devastatingly in 2005, reshaped the pier head, destroying wooden planks, the pub, and retail units, yet leaving the iron structure largely intact. Restoration has been meticulous, blending reclaimed timber with new wood, maintaining the pier’s Victorian charm while ensuring it remains a modern, safe destination.

As you walk, you notice the small details: the subtle iron brackets, the timber grain that has been polished over decades, and the gentle sway beneath your feet. Each step is a link to the past, a reminder that this is not just a seaside promenade but a structure that has witnessed generations of visitors, laughter, and resilience.

Walking the World’s Longest Pleasure Pier

At the far end, colourful beach huts house kiosks, ice cream stands, and Tea with the Tide, the café that now welcomes visitors where Jamie & Jimmy’s Café was once filmed for Channel 4. Pause for a moment and check your phone map — the little blue dot floating mid-sea never fails to make you smile. Behind you, Southend blurs; ahead, the horizon beckons. The rhythmic creak of the boards beneath your feet, combined with gull cries and estuary winds, creates a uniquely meditative experience.

For those with little legs or a desire to save energy, the pier train offers a scenic, effortless journey across the estuary. Yet nothing quite compares to walking the full 1.33 miles, feeling the estuary breeze, observing sailing boats glide past, and noticing Kent or the Isle of Sheppey shimmer faintly in the distance on a clear day.

Beyond the Pier: Culture, Art, and Coastal Life

Southend-on-Sea is far more than its iconic pier. Venture inland, and the Beecroft Gallery impresses with twentieth-century paintings, while the Southend Central Museum tells tales of the local coastline from prehistoric fossils to Victorian curiosities. The Cliffs Pavilion, a striking modern theatre, hosts touring productions, live music, and family shows, blending contemporary culture with the town’s historic charm. Public art and murals along the promenade celebrate local heritage, from maritime legends to colorful depictions of past seaside life.

A short coastal walk leads to Leigh-on-Sea, a fishing village where cobbled streets spill down to pubs and galleries by the water. Boats return to the quay, nets are sorted, and oysters are shucked fresh to order. Artists’ studios and antique shops provide unexpected treasures, encouraging visitors to linger and explore a quieter, more intimate side of coastal Essex life.

You don’t need to leave the UK for an unforgettable escape. Just as the estuary breeze refreshes you on Southend Pier, the windswept heights of Stanage Edge in the Peak District offer panoramic views, crisp air, and the thrill of open space — all accessible without a long flight. Travel sustainably where you can: take public transport, stroll or cycle instead of driving and take in those views. From seaside promenades to moorland cliffs, the UK is full of adventures just waiting to be discovered.

Eating and Drinking

Seaside classics coexist with modern dining. Oldhams Fish Restaurant offers traditional fish and chips, while Ocean Beach pairs panoramic estuary views with cocktails. Sands by the Sea caters to families with fresh, simple dishes and seaside charm, while Leigh-on-Sea boasts pubs like The Crooked Billet, where oysters are briny and bright, washed down with locally brewed ales. Seasonal dining is a delight: in summer, ice creams and sorbets abound; in autumn, oysters and estuary fish are at their freshest. Afternoon tea, particularly at Tea with the Tide, allows visitors to sip and pause mid-estuary, taking in the wide sweep of water around them.

Where to Stay

Accommodation ranges from lively seafront hotels to boutique options tucked along quieter streets. The Park Inn by Radisson Palace places you in the heart of the action, while the Seven Hotel offers sleek interiors and estuary views for those seeking tranquillity. Family-run bed and breakfasts provide welcoming charm and local insight, ideal for those who appreciate a personal touch. The convenience of seafront locations ensures you can arrive, explore, and sleep with minimal fuss, and easy access to the pier means early-morning walks are a temptation hard to resist.

Southend with Children

Families will find Southend a perfect balance of adventure and ease. The pier train preserves little legs, while Three Shells Lagoon offers safe paddling and sandcastle opportunities. Adventure Island’s all-day wristbands ensure older children are entertained for hours, while arcades, miniature golf, and the promenade itself provide timeless amusement. Quiet moments exist too: benches along the pier or shaded spots on the beach allow for a pause, and the sensory experience of salt, sand, and seagull cries delights children and adults alike.

A Perfect Weekend Itinerary

Arrive in Southend-on-Sea on a Friday afternoon and settle into a seafront hotel such as the Park Inn by Radisson Palace, where your window frames both the pier and the lively promenade below. After checking in, take a gentle stroll along the esplanade to stretch your legs and let the salty breeze set the tone for the weekend. As the evening light softens, head to the pier for your first glimpse of the mile-long stretch of timber and iron disappearing into the estuary. Whether you take the train or walk partway, pause to admire the blue mile markers and the play of sunlight on the water. Conclude your first evening with dinner at a nearby restaurant, sampling freshly caught fish and chips or a modern seafood dish while the tide laps quietly below.

Saturday begins with a hearty breakfast before venturing to the pier for a full-length stroll. Let the rhythmic creak of the boards guide you toward the far end, where Tea with the Tide now stands in place of the former Jamie & Jimmy’s Café, a perfect spot for photos and a small refreshment. Afterward, turn inland to explore Southend’s cultural offerings, including the airy rooms of the Beecroft Gallery or the historic displays at Southend Central Museum. For lunch, venture to Leigh-on-Sea, a charming fishing village a short walk along the coast, where cobbled streets, antique shops, and waterfront pubs invite a slower pace. Sample oysters at The Crooked Billet, watch the boats come and go, and linger over coffee as the estuary glints in the afternoon sun.

In the late afternoon, return to the seafront for some light thrills at Adventure Island, where rollercoasters, dodgems, and arcades keep children entertained while adults enjoy nostalgic seaside energy. As the sun dips, take one last promenade walk, perhaps indulging in an ice cream or a stick of rock, and admire the pier lights twinkling against the water before dinner at Ocean Beach or another seafront eatery with a view of the estuary.

Sunday offers a quieter pace. Begin with a slow breakfast and, weather permitting, spend some time at Three Shells Lagoon, where children can paddle safely and sandcastles are built to last mere moments in the incoming tide. A final walk along the pier, either on foot or via the train, allows one more perspective on Southend’s unique charm before packing up. Finish your weekend with a last coffee on the promenade or a souvenir from one of the kiosks, pausing to appreciate the blend of seaside tradition, cultural heritage, and small, surprising moments that make Southend-on-Sea such an enduring destination.

Practicalities

Southend is easily accessible by train, with Southend Central and Southend Victoria both under an hour from London, and by car via the M25. The pier is open year-round, though opening hours vary by season, and the train may occasionally pause during inclement weather. Summer brings a lively carnival atmosphere, while spring and early autumn offer quieter walks and golden light. Tea with the Tide is open to the public, while the café formerly used for filming, Jamie & Jimmy’s Café, remains a historic touchpoint and a photo opportunity for fans. Parking is mostly paid, concentrated near the seafront and pier entrance, while public transport makes a car unnecessary for a weekend stay.

Thinking sustainably? Skip the car and hop on a train from London — the estuary views are worth it, and your carbon footprint will thank you. Pack light, pack smart: reusable bottles, eco-friendly toiletries, and a few essential layers will keep you comfortable and green. For a full checklist, check out my sustainable travel packing guide — because exploring beautifully doesn’t have to cost the planet.

FAQs and Insider Tips

Visitors often ask how long it takes to walk the pier, and the answer is roughly twenty-five minutes one way for a steady stroll. The pier is entirely accessible for strollers and wheelchairs, with the train providing an easy alternative for those who prefer not to walk the full distance. Families may wonder what’s best for children: the tidal pools at Three Shells Lagoon are safe for paddling, while Adventure Island thrills older children, and arcades deliver the timeless excitement of flashing lights and claw machines. Parents will also find plenty of benches and quiet corners for small breaks along the promenade.

Seasonal timing can make a big difference. Summer brings a lively, carnival-like atmosphere, complete with music, street performers, and bustling ice cream kiosks, while spring and early autumn offer quieter walks and golden light, perfect for photography. For photography enthusiasts, sunrise and early morning are particularly magical on the pier, when mist over the estuary gives the water an almost ethereal glow, and gulls wheel gracefully overhead.

Those interested in history will appreciate pausing at the pier’s mile markers, which chart your progress and hint at the pier’s evolution through fire, war, and Victorian ingenuity. Keep an eye out for subtle architectural details, from reclaimed timbers in the boardwalk to ironwork dating back over a century. For fans of Jamie & Jimmy’s Café, the new Tea with the Tide now occupies the same spot, offering a nod to television history and a chance for a photo in the same location, though visitors should remember it is now fully operational and open to the public rather than for filming.

For dining, timing is key: lunchtime sees the busiest crowds at seafront cafes, while a late afternoon visit to Leigh-on-Sea allows for leisurely exploration of boutique shops, galleries, and waterfront pubs without the rush. Parking is mostly paid and concentrated near the pier entrance, but trains from London to Southend Central and Southend Victoria make a car optional for a weekend visit.

Insider tips include bringing binoculars to spot the Isle of Sheppey or Kent on a clear day, checking tide times for a full view of the estuary, and timing your pier walk to coincide with low sun for dramatic photographs. Locals suggest lingering at the far end of the pier to watch small sailing boats pass, or even taking a gentle stroll along the beach at Leigh-on-Sea after lunch for a quieter perspective on coastal life. Lastly, keep a small umbrella or light jacket handy: coastal weather can change in moments, and the estuary breeze can be surprisingly brisk even in summer.

The Last Word

Southend-on-Sea is unapologetically itself. It is neon arcades, rollercoasters, and sticks of rock, but also sunsets over the estuary, a pier that defies logic, and oysters on a cobbled quay. Come for the longest pier in the world, stay for the small surprises, and leave with salt in your hair, vinegar on your fingers, and the sense that you have stepped into the timeless ritual of the British seaside holiday.

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Note: Originally published September 2020; updated September 2025. Stock photography has been utilised from a variety of sources, photographs of the Beecroft Gallery and Cliffs Pavillion kindly provided byVisit Essex.